Scala's Bistro

Scala’s Bistro
432 Powell Street at Sutter
The Sir Francis Drake Hotel
415-395-8555
A+
When someone told the reigning Mr. San Francisco that there was a guy trying to write a balanced review of every joint in San Francisco offering a burger, I got an email from Harry Denton suggesting I’d neglected his favorite which is made by the talented kitchen at Scala’s Bistro, home to his world renowned Starlight Room perched atop this landmark hotel in the heart of Union Square. Harry graciously offered to be our host with an unconditional guarantee that he would accept whatever we wrote, so a friend of both of ours, Jacob Logsdon, joined us and we experienced the Scala burger he rightfully takes such pride in. This is a beautiful restaurant and bar, brought to life by the Kimpton folks and a San Francisco dining destination since it opened.

The bar and dining room is part of the southern side of the entrance and lobby and is warm and welcoming with rich woods, a multitude of period lighting, comfortable seating and tables, most separated like booths at shoulder level with etched glass and polished mahogany. We were given one of these booths and it was the first thing Harry noticed when he joined Jacob and me, because they’re a little tight for the full bodied man and Harry and I share that dubious distinction but it worked. Service is great with handsome men and great looking gals dressed like the staff at Harry’s in Venice but friendlier and better at their job. A selection of house made breads, extra virgin olive oil and ice water with lemon were set on the table with an invitation to ask for more if we wanted, always a welcoming touch. Harry insisted we try more than just the burger so we split a small plate of wild boar meatballs and another of ‘Earth and Surf’ with crisp calamari, rock shrimp, onion, fennel, green beans, spicy aioli and both were superb.

A full bar and an expansive wine list only add to the large number of choices visitors to this great destination are faced with, but now to the burger. On the main menu under Panini they list the ‘Bistro Burger’ with traditional accompaniments on a house made egg bun with pommes frietes and a choice of either cheddar or mountain gorgonzola, and the waiter smiled with assurance as we each ordered our burger with a different cheese and a different degree of done. The burgers arrived and we were unanimous that we each were enjoying one of the great burgers to be had anywhere. The meat was cooked perfectly as ordered for each one of us, the cheese was melted to perfection and the bun was toasted just right. The fries are addictive and worthy of a glowing review on their own and it didn’t end there. Fine pickled squash replaced the more traditional pickles and are also habit forming and also each platter held fine sliced tomato, lettuce and aioli.

The beauty, rich ambience and discreet service along with outstanding ingredients and a dedicated kitchen come together to make this a stellar burger, but more than that I’m glad Harry insisted we try some additional items this Michelin candidate offers with such skill and excellence because this is now part of my inventory of must visit fine dining restaurants in San Francisco as well as a candidate for the Burger Bible Hall of Fame for their brilliant burger.